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The word is derived from an Arabic word 'Itr' meaning a perfume.
In Persian, 'atra jul' means the 'fat of the flower'. In general,
the term is used to signify a concentrate essence of a fragrant
material. These are normally stored in porous skin bottles known
as 'kuppi'.
Floral Itra may be defined as the distillates obtained by the water
distillation of flowers in Sandalwood Oil.Itra
is still manufactured by the traditional 'Deg and Bhapka' method.
The still is heated from below by lighting a fire, usually dried
cow dung acts as fuel. (The benefit of using the cow dung is that
it never gets as hot as wood and hence the risk of over heating
is avoided).
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The
temperature and speed of distillation is oriented by regulating
the fire and dose of fuel. The distillation set-up is managed by
skilled workers, called 'Dighaa'. The water in the tank is changed
continuously to prevent the temperature from rising too high. Managing
the still is highly skilled job, as the operator must keep the boiling
in the still at a level that is in accordance to the condensation
in the receiver, in order to keep the pressure under control. The
receiver is then allowed to cool.
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The
mixture of oil and water is then separated either directly from
the receiver through a small opening at the bottom or an open trough.
After the oil and water have separated into two layers, the water
is then further removed in a similar manner. In the case of Rose,
this water is cohobated. After required optimum concentration of
the Itra has been achieved, the same is poured and stocked in leather
bottles.
For the manufacture of floral attars, the flowers are required to
be processed quickly upon being plucked. Hence, this work starts
early in the morning because at that time flowers possess maximum
aroma. The equipments used for this purpose are simple, light weight,
easy to repair and the whole process takes place in remote villages.
Brief description of the equipments used is as under:
Deg (Still):
The whole process has been traditionally carried out in copper (basically
a mixed alloy of copper, known as 'phool') stills called 'Degs'.
The lid of the still is called 'Sarpos' and it is also made of copper
and has a connection for the 'Bhapka'. Copper has been the principal
material for Deg and Bhapka because it is a good conductor of heat,
easy to repair and also because of its malleability.
Bhapka (Receiver):
The receiver has a long neck and a round bottom. This receiver is
connected to the Deg via means of equipment called 'Chonga'. An
interesting feature of Deg & Bhapka system is that there is
no separate condenser used and the receiver acts as condenser as
well.
Chonga (Bamboo Condenser):
It is deployed to connect the still and receiver. It is a hollow
bamboo, tightly wrapped with twine for insulation.
Bhatti (Furnace):
Usually, wood, cow-dung or coal is used for heating the still.
Gachchi (Tank):
A small tank filled with water where Bhapka is placed. It's purpose
is to cool the distillate in the Deg.
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Kuppi
(Bottle):
These bottles are made of animal hide possessing a very special
quality of keeping the attars stored in them fresh by the
removal of moisture from the attars. The reason is the semi-permeability
of these bottles towards water.
Attars may be categorized in many types based on the basic
raw material used. Floral Itra are manufactured from single
species of flower like Gulab, Keora, Motia, Chameli etc. where
as Herbal and Spicy Itra are intuitive blend of vivid flowers,
herbs and spices. There are some Itra which do not find place
in the above mentioned classification; Itra Gil (Mitti) is
one of them.
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Some
of Sugandhco's Itra |
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Chandan
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Natural
aroma of Sandalwood having mild and soft smell. Vastly
used in personal care round the year.
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Gil
(Mitti)
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Smell
of the Earth after the first shower of rain. Produced
by steam distillation of baked Earth over Sandalwood.
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Gul
Hina
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Natural
extract of Mehandi possessing a typically soft and
sweet aroma.
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Gulab
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Special
variety of rose flowers distilled over sandalwood
oil.
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Hina
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An
intricate combination of over sixty herbs and spices.
A sweet, spicy and warm fragrance, exclusively for
winters.
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Keora
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Processed
by distillation of Keora balis over Sandalwood. Sweet,
mild aroma, also known as sweet itra.
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Khus
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Processed
by distillation of roots of vetivert. Soothing, sweet
and earthy aroma with an intrinsic feel of a cool
breeze. Best for summers. The highest quality is found
in North India.
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Motia
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A
variety of Jasmine flowers, distilled over Sandalwood.
Has a fresh, mild floral fragrance.
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Musk
Amber
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A
rich and sophisticated blend of vivid herbs and spices
possessing a warm, heavy and spicy aroma. Exclusively
for winters.
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Shamama
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Saffron
based warm, spicy and heady blend.
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Try
an Itra to give your personality a Nawabi touch!
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Students/Writers/Perfumers
who wish to copy all or a part of the above article should seek
prior written permission and have a reference/link to our website.
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